Seige

Originally built in 1283 and a sister castle to the one across the bay at Criccieth, Harlech Castle has the honour of being at the heart of the longest known seige in British history, which lasted seven years between 1461 and 1468 while under the command of Constable Dafydd ap Ieuan. The War of the Roses was raging and the Lancastrian forces inside the castle held out long after other garrisons had caved in. Eventually, famine forced their surrender to Lord Herbert of the Yorkist faction, but only after the negotiation of favourable terms.

This was not the first seige to be endured by Harlech Castle, but the length makes it memorable and the event was recounted in a famous Welsh song; "Men of Harlech" or "The March of the Men of Harlech" (in Welsh: Rhyfelgyrch Gwŷr Harlech), which has become the regimental march of several regiments associated with the country, including two from Canada and two from Australia. It has also featured in several films; most notably the 1964 account of an event in the South African Boer War "Zulu".

There are several versions of the song. To hear it in English, follow this link or if you fancy hearing the Welsh, as sung by the Treorchy male Choir, try here.

Harlech Castle

One last topic from last years holiday in Wales and this is Harlech Castle!

I've been past Harlech Castle many many times (on train, car and foot) and seen it from the shores of the Llyn Peninsula across the bay, but I had never actually been in it until last year and I was surprised to discover how much of the castle is actually remaining. The photo above shows the twin gate towers.

The walls are still strong enough to be walked...

and this is the view from the top of the tower.

Its elevated position makes it very defendable! This is the northern edge of Harlech. The units with skylights are on a new industrial estate and I think that the white building across the road is part of the local secondary school. The loop of road in front of it is definitely a bus stop; marked with the words SAFLE BWS.

The sports field has rugby posts (what else?!) and there is the inevitable caravan park alongside the far edge.

Spot the train in the station? It's heading north towards Porthmadog, then down the Llyn Peninsula (seen across the bay) to Criccieth and the end of the line in Pwllheli.

Good view, fascinating history; Harlech Castle was definitely more interesting than I expected it to be :)

Criccieth castle

As I've strayed into Wales, I'll stay there for a while. Why not? It's one of my favourite places on earth :)

Criccieth is a small town of just under 2,000 inhabitants, the majority of whom are actually Welsh; and Welsh is the predominant language spoken. The town is on the south coast of the Llyn Peninsula, which sticks out into the sea just below the Isle of Anglesay (Ynys Mon).

This is Criccieth castle, strategically placed on its own rocky promontory overlooking both town and sea.

You really can't miss it as you drive down the south coast of the peninsula. A bend in the road (just past the layby with the good views of Moel y Gest) and there it is; standing proud on the skyline. It's been over twenty years since the summers when I used to be on team at the Abersoch Holiday Mission a little further down this coast, but the sight of Criccieth castle still gives me the tingle of excitement which I associate with my Abersoch days. It's a 'nearly there' kind of thrill, which is totally unfair on Criccieth because the whole family had two excellent camping holidays here when the boys were little and this summer will be the sixth consecutive year that one or both boys have been on Pathfinder/CYFA activity camp in the town.

The castle itself was built in three phases over a relatively short period of time in the 13th Century. There is some dispute as to who exactly built what, but the most common consensus is that the first two phases were constructed by native Welshmen Llywelyn ab Iorwerth and Llywelyn ap Gryffydd, and then additions were made by Edward I & II.

The original purpose of the castle was to strengthen the power base of Llywelyn ab Iorwerth in North Wales, particularly against the growing encroachment of the English (still a perrenial problem). The location of the castle by the sea would have allowed for supplies to be brought in to feed a Welsh garrison and a lookout on the castle walls would have been able to see from the mountains of Snowdonia to the far curve of the peninsula, as well as across Cardigan Bay to the castle at Harlech.

The inner ward with it's fortified gatehouse and murder holes was added to by Llywelyn ap Gryffydd who built an outer ward with a dividing series of courtyards, all of which would have to be crossed before reaching the inner gate. In addition, his new outer gate was defended by a large rectangular tower, two, or possibly three, storeys high.

In spite of all this fortification, in 1282-83, Criccieth castle fell to Edward I and English rule began. To emphasise his dominance in the area, he immediately began to refortify the castle, adding an extra rectangular tower and rebuilding the gatehouse towers built by the Welsh.

The castle came under seige in 1295 during the rebellion of Madog, but although both this one and Harlech came under serious threat becasue of their distance from any other English stronghold, supplies were brought in from Ireland by sea and eventually a relief force arrived to supplement the existing garrison and put down the rebellion. Among other things, the relief force brought 18 crossbowmen and 2,500 crossbow bolts to be shared out between  the two castles.

The military significance of Criccieth castle came to an end with the advent of Owain Glyndwr, who, in 1404 captured the town, sacked the castle and set it on fire.

Today, what remains of Criccieth castle is managed by Cadw, which is the Welsh Assembly Government's historic environment division, and it's well worth a visit; even in the rain :)

Dydd Gŵyl Dewi Sant

Y Ddraig Goch - The Red Dragon

Just in case you hadn't realised, today is the Feast of Saint David, the patron saint of Wales, so today's blog has a slightly Welsh feel.

David was a Celtic monk, abbot and bishop, who was amongst the first of those to spread the message of Christianity among the pagan tribes of Wales. He was born towards the end of the 5th century (around 100 years after the Roman departure from Britain) in Capel Non on the coast of South West Wales (near the present day city of St David, which grew from the monastery which he founded).

He travelled widely throughout Wales, but is also believed to have visited Cornwall and Brittany. Many miracles are credited to him, the most famous of which is said to have occured in Llanddewi Brefi at a synod to debate his suitability for appointment as Archbishop of Wales. The crowd at the back being unable to hear, he is said to have spread his handkerchief on the ground and stood on it, causing the land to rise into a small hill thereby allowing all to see and hear his message. Not surprisingly, he was made Archbishop very shortly thereafter!

1st March was chosen to celebrate his day because it is believed to be the anniversary of his death in 859.

Before anyone races to educate me (always a good thing!)... Although it is the national flag of Wales, the Red Dragon is not actually the flag of St David. His flag usually appears as a gold cross on a black background and will be widely used during celebrations today. My Red Dragon was snapped flying over the crennellated parapet of the gate tower of Harlech castle (above), which I have seen many times, but actually entered for the first time last summer.

Most of my Welsh wanderings have been northern and to me, the real attraction of Wales is the juxtaposition of the mountains and the sea; much enhanced by dual language signage!

Abermaw

Dydd Gwyl Dewi hapus!